BRAZIL

a dazzling array of tropical birds, plus a great chance of Jaguar

How does one start to describe a country as rich as Brazil? As large as Western Europe, within her borders flows the greatest river on earth. No fewer than one fifth of all the world's bird species can be found here, in a wide variety of habitats which include Amazonian rainforest, Atlantic forest, grassland (campo), savannah (cerrado) and wetland. In our all too short exploration of this country we have chosen to visit four out of five of these habitats, leaving the Amazon for those who don't mind the insects and rain! Itatiaia National Park. protects some of the best remaining subtropical Atlantic forest there is. Brasilia's campo and cerrado are also unsurpassed.

The Pantanal needs little introduction; it boasts the largest seasonally flooded freshwater wetland in the world and Hyacinth Macaw! By staying in good quality accommodation on the doorstep of the best sites, and by taking internal flights, travelling will be kept to a minimum, allowing more time to enjoy the birds and other wildlife. We will spend five nights at Itatiaia, three nights at Brasilia and five nights in the Pantanal. August is the dry austral winter, making for a comfortable visit at a time when the Pantanal is at its very best.

Saffron Toucanet (left) and Spot-billed Toucanet (right) by Roger Barnes

ITINERARY

ITATIAIA NATIONAL PARK

After our overnight flight to Sao Paulo, we will have a three hour drive to Itatiaia (pronounced Ita-cheya), arriving in time for lunch. Five nights here will give us the ideal start, birdwatching at leisure in the vicinity of the hotels as well as along trails leading into the surrounding hills. Whilst at Itatiaia we will spend two nights at the Hotel Sao Gotardo (at 6000 feet) and three nights at the Hotel do Ype (at 3000 feet). This will allow us to visit the various altitudinal life-zones, with their different selections of birds.

Brazil's oldest national park hosts many species endemic to the region. Star-throated Ant-wren, Pin-tailed Manakin, Itatiaia Thistletail and Black-and-gold Cotinga are amongst the 150 or more species we can expect to see. As we gain altitude different species present themselves. Higher up we will search for Plovercrest, Diademed Tanager, Bay-chested Warbling Finch and Slaty Bristlefront. But the easiest and often most rewarding birdwatching is done around the hotels, where numerous forest species are attracted to fruiting trees, flowers and bird tables. Violet-capped Woodnymph, Versicoloured Emerald and Brazilian Ruby are amongst the numerous stunning hummingbirds, whilst tanagers include Black-goggled, Gilt-edged, Brassy-breasted, and Golden-chevroned. The beautiful Swallow-tanager and unusual Magpie Tanager are amongst the many highlights. Variety is provided by Brazilian Trogons, Saffron Toucanets, Rufous-capped Motmots, Red-rumped Caciques, Black Hawk-eagles, Slaty-breasted Wood-rails, Tawny-browed Owls and Giant Ant-shrikes.

Amongst a multitude of flycatchers, Streamer-tailed Tyrant, Velvet Black Tyrant and Eared Pygmy Tyrant are the stars. On day seven we will drive to Rio, visiting the famous Corcovado with its statue of Christ. Offshore there are Brown Boobies, Magnificent Frigatebirds and Kelp Gulls. We will then take a short flight to the capital, Brasilia.

BRASILIA NATIONAL PARK

Established in 1961, Brasilia National Park preserves intact the most significant tract of cerrado (long grass interspersed with tall trees) in Brazil. More reminiscent of East Africa than South America, the park holds various interesting mammals such as Giant Anteater, Pampas Deer, Pampas Fox and Maned Wolf, as well as the ostrich-like Greater Rhea and the elegant Red-legged Seriema.

We will stay in Brasilia for three nights, at the lovely Retiro das Pedras, a guest ranch with its own trails through cerrado and gallery forest. The cerrado holds Spotted Nothura, Red-winged Tinamou, Aplomado Falcon, Red-shouldered Macaw, Horned Sungem, Toco Toucan (of Guinness fame), White-eared Puffbird, Curl-crested Jay, Collared Crescent-chest and Fork-tailed Flycatcher. One of the most conspicuous species is the Burrowing Owl. The highlight of a previous trip was finding a Chapada Suiriri, a species first described to science in 2001!

The gallery forest is home to various spinetails and foliage-gleaners, plus Blue-crowned Motmot, Rusty-breasted Nunlet, White-wedged Piculet, Black-capped Antwren and the stunning Helmeted Manakin. The endemic Brasilia Tapaculo, first described in 1957, occurs throughout the park but a certain amount of luck is required to find this elusive species. Bare-faced Curassow appear at the edge of the forest at dusk. It is difficult to decide which sex is the most stunning; the males with their striking black and white plumage or the females with their barred backs and rufous underparts. The Firewood-gatherer is one of the most sought-after species. They are rather localised but easily found; just look for their huge untidy nests in bare trees and the birds are never far away. At dusk we will look for Tropical Screech-owl, Nacunda Nighthawk and Little Nightjar, all of which are common. On day ten we will fly from Brasilia to Cuiaba, the gateway to the northern Pantanal.

PANTANAL

Arriving in Cuiaba, we will drive down the Transpantaneira, a road which penetrates some 148 km into the northern Pantanal. We will spend two nights at a guest farm situated half way along this road, at Pixaim, and three nights at the south end at Porto Jofre. This way we will be able to explore the whole area. Thousands of storks, herons, egrets and ibis throng the marshes; concentrated in isolated pools at the end of the dry season. The rains are just a few weeks away and all are gearing up to breed; displaying and quarrelling in resplendent plumage. Raptors are ever present including King Vulture, Snail Kite, Crane Hawk and Laughing Falcon. Southern Screamers and Blue-throated Piping-guans provide a raucous dawn chorus. Amongst the star birds are Sunbittern, Sungrebe, Jabiru, Buff-necked Ibis, Whistling Heron, Capped Heron, Rufescent Tiger-heron, and Boat-billed Heron. Small birds to be found during short walks from the hotels include Epaulet Oriole, Yellow-billed Cardinal, Black-capped Donacobius, Yellow-browed Tyrant, Rufous Cacholote, Red-billed Scythebill and Cream-coloured Woodpecker.

Evening excursions should produce sightings of Band-tailed Nighthawks, Spot-tailed Nightjars and Pauraques, as well as a few animals. Wildlife here includes Yellow Caiman, Anaconda, Capybara, Black Howler Monkey, Coati, Giant Otter, Giant Anteater, Crab-eating Raccoon, Ocelot, Puma, and Jaguarundi. Our visits in 2002 and 2003 both produced excellent sightings of Jaguar! At the time of writing we have yet to visit in 2004….

There are many parrots in the Pantanal, including Golden-collared Macaw, White-eyed Parakeet, Black-hooded Parakeet and Turquoise-fronted Parrot. But of course, pride of place must go to the Pantanal's most famous species, the Hyacinth Macaw. Good numbers of this, the largest parrot in the world, can be found here. Watching them flying to roost against a brilliant red sunset is a rare privilege. On day 15 we will fly back from Cuiaba to Sao Paulo, to connect with our overnight flight back to London.

Jabiru by Ian Willoughby

PACE On some days breakfast will be taken at 8.00am, allowing time for productive pre-breakfast walks in the vicinity of the hotels. On other days breakfast will be at 7.00am so that we can get into the field quite early. Basic fitness is all that is required. Full days will be spent in the field with short/medium length walks on the flat. A little uphill walking is necessary at Itatiaia, but this will be at a slow pace. On hot days there will be a longer break in the middle of the day, with birding in the mornings and late afternoons.

ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD Full-board accommodation is provided with five nights in Itatiaia (two at the Hotel Sao Gotardo and three at the Hotel do Ype), three nights in Brasilia (Retiro das Pedras) and five nights in the Pantanal (two nights at the Fazenda Santa Tereza, Pixaim and three nights at the Hotel Porto Jofre). All hotels are of a good standard with en suite bathrooms. Packed lunches will be taken when we are away from the hotel in the middle of the day.

PRICE INCLUDES ….. All birdwatching excursions with expert leader, full-board accommodation, soft drinks, local transport by mini-bus, boat trips in the Pantanal, three domestic flights, international flight to Sao Paulo, and flight and airport taxes.

WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED Cost of travel insurance, payable at the time of booking. Items of a personal nature, alcoholic drinks, laundry, etc.

INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Return flight from London Heathrow to Sao Paulo using the scheduled services of Varig Brazilian Airlines. Outbound flight departs late evening, return flight arrives back midday. Connecting shuttle flights are available on this tour for £60 return (due at time of booking), from Manchester and other regional airports.

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