CANARY ISLANDS

the endemic birds of Tenerife, La Gomera and Fuerteventura

Several Houbara Bustards and Blue Chaffinches were found on our 2004 tour and views were excellent as you can see! Phil Palmer. For more Photos see our Photo Album.

Few of the many thousands of tourists who visit this archipelago stray far from its sun-kissed beaches. But the volcanic grey sands which give the beaches a very unusual appearance are just a tiny part of the natural wonders of the Canaries.

Dormant volcanoes, remote mountain valleys, cloud forests and deserts combine with endemic birds to make this a holiday not to be missed. On Tenerife, a journey of less than 30km takes us from our base on the coast through euphorbia scrub, past numerous extinct small volcanoes, through remote mountain valleys and pine forests and finally to the foot of Mount Teide. At over 3,700 metres it is higher than any mountain in the Pyrenees.

Fuerteventura's dry climate results in a completely different appearance which more closely resembles North Africa than the western islands. The birdlife too is very different and is characterised by those species which prefer dry stony deserts and vast sand dunes. Furthermore, it is home to the most sought after of all the endemics, the Fuerteventura Chat.

In order to appreciate the full diversity of birdlife that these islands have to offer we will spend four nights on Tenerife and three nights on Fuerteventura. From Tenerife we will also visit La Gomera on a day trip. The species list is not long and the birdwatching will be unhurried, but there is great quality in the rare and endemic species that we will see.

ITINERARY

TENERIFE Tenerife will be our base for the first four nights. The island is home to six out of the seven species endemic to the area, as well as numerous endemic subspecies. It is the largest island in the archipelago. However, as the crow flies, one has only to travel about 10km from our base to Mt Teide, which at 3718 metres is the highest mountain in Spain. We will stay on the west coast, at Puerto de Santiago, one of the smaller coastal resorts.

The volcanic Mt Teide offers spectacular scenery and home to the endemic Canary. Both photographed on our 2004 tour. Phil Palmer

At about 1500 metres above sea level the endemic Canary Island Pine starts to predominate. Here, life is very difficult for wildlife as there is practically no standing water due to the porous volcanic rocks. Any bird which lives here must be totally suited to its environment. Tenerife's most famous endemic, the Canary Island or Blue Chaffinch lives here. Very few other species share this demanding habitat. Great Spotted Woodpeckers have found a niche here. We will also see the local race of the recently split African Blue Tit, with neat black crown and brilliant blue mantle.

At about 2000 metres we leave the pine forests and come to a gigantic crater called Las Canadas del Teide. With a diameter of about 20km, it is visually awe inspiring, but supports very little bird life. One species does scrape out a living here. The Bertholot's Pipit is so perfectly adapted to life on these islands that it can survive in even the most inhospitable parts.

On the north facing slopes, where the wind brings damp air from the Atlantic, there is a totally different habitat. The Laurel forests, sometimes called rain forest, but more accurately described as cloud forest, are home to a much richer diversity of bird and plant life. Two species of bird have evolved to live in this habitat and are found nowhere else but in the laurel forests of Tenerife and La Gomera. These are the rare Bolle's Laurel Pigeon and the White-tailed Laurel Pigeon.

The Tenerife Kinglet is common here. Taxonomists generally assumed it to be a race of the Firecrest, despite its Goldcrest like appearance, but more recently it has been pronounced that it is a species in its own right. The Chaffinch which inhabits this threatened forest habitat has also evolved a very different appearance to the mainland birds. Although not as far down the evolutionary path as Blue Chaffinch, these birds are nevertheless very striking, with stunning blue backs and peachy underparts. Avoiding the dense Laurel forest, the Canary inhabits woodland edges and hedgerows in northern Tenerife. This wild ancestor of the familiar domestic bird is fairly common and should give good views.

Isolated for thousands of years, the birds have evolved into new subspecies or species. This is the European Galapagos Islands. The Blue Tits on each island look slightly different. The bird on the right lacks the green back, yellow cheeks and wing bar of its familiar British cousin. This has led to it recently being named as a separate species - the African Blue Tit. You will be amazed at how different the Chaffinches are, while the Tenerife Robin sings a very different song. For Darwin enthusiasts, this is a wonderful place to see evolution at work.

Little Egrets can be seen feeding in coastal rock pools, alongside the dark-looking local race of the Yellow-legged Gull and there is a small population of Cattle Egrets.

On one day we will take a car ferry across to La Gomera. From the boat we hope to see Bulwer's Petrel, Little Shearwater and Cory's Shearwater (left, Phil Palmer). As well as the seabirds, there are large numbers of Bottle-nosed Dolphins and Pilot Whales, which also take advantage of the rich feeding. On La Gomera, there is some well preserved Laurel forest with easy access, where we have a good chance of seeing the Canary Island's most elusive endemic, the White-tailed Laurel Pigeon.

FUERTEVENTURA

In complete contrast to Tenerife, Fuerteventura more closely resembles the hot, sandy deserts of North Africa, just 70 miles to the east. It still gives away its origins with impressive extinct volcanoes and craters, but the dry climate has made its mark on the landscape. Huge sand dunes are home to a few North African species while others prefer the stony deserts which cover most of the island.

First and foremost, our visit to Fuerteventura will take us in search of the most restricted of all the eastern Atlantic endemics. The Fuerteventura Chat, a relative of our Stonechat, is not difficult to find in suitable habitat. These beautiful birds favour dry stony river beds and broken ground. In the same dry wadis or barrancos we can also find Southern Grey Shrikes and Sardinian Warblers, alongside the common and easy to see Spectacled Warbler.

Furteventura Chat (left) and Black-bellied Sandgrouse (right). Both photographed on our 2004 tour. Phil Palmer

In the stony desert-like plains a number of birds typical of North Africa can be found. Black-bellied Sandgrouse are fairly common and Lesser Short-toed Larks are very numerous. Hoopoes can be seen feeding at the edge of cultivated fields and Spanish Sparrows frequent the towns. Trumpeter Finches call to each other as they move about in small parties, scratching out a living from this dry habitat. Stone Curlews can be heard giving their evocative, melancholy calls at dawn and dusk. While walking through the broken ground we may flush a party of Barbary Partridges and we must always keep an eye open for Egyptian Vultures.

Plain Swifts breed throughout the islands and are fairly common, and we can also expect to see Pallid Swift. A large pool in the centre of the island has recently attracted a few immigrant Marbled Ducks, alongside Coot and Moorhen, two species which are themselves scarce on these islands. Even the Ruddy Shelduck has started to breed, but whether these remain for future years, when the original population is so small, remains to be seen. Our 2004 tour also found rarities including Ring-necked Duck and Palm Dove. We shall also endeavour to find two exciting North African species in the form of the Cream-coloured Courser (right, Phil Palmer) and Houbara Bustard. Both frequent the sandy dunes and stony deserts which are a feature of the island. The former is one of the most elegant of all birds while the latter is highly endangered. At least here, however, it is safe from the people who have decimated the populations elsewhere, engaged in the 'noble sport' of falconry. The sight of a magnificent Houbara Bustard will provide one of the many highlights of this holiday.

PACE Breakfast will be taken at about 7.30am most mornings. Basic fitness is all that is required. Full days will be spent in the field and medium length walks on the flat will be undertaken regularly. There will be a little uphill walking. Excursions are optional should you wish to relax or do your own thing.

ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD Full-board accommodation will be provided, with four nights at the Hotel Tamaimo Tropical, Puerto de Santiago, Tenerife and three nights at the Hotel Mariquita Hierro, El Cotillo, Fuerteventura. Packed lunches will be provided every day.

PRICE INCLUDES ….. All birdwatching excursions with expert leaders, full-board accommodation, local transport by minibus, return flights to Tenerife, internal flights between Tenerife and Fuerteventura, ferry to La Gomera, soft drinks at meal times, and government flight and airport taxes.

WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED Travel insurance, payable at the time of booking. Items of a personal nature, alcoholic drinks, laundry, tips, etc. Optional Cable Car to the peak of Mt Teide.

INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Return flights from London Heathrow to Tenerife (via Madrid) using the scheduled services of Iberia Airlines. Outbound flight departs early morning, return flight arrives back late afternoon. Connecting shuttle flights are available on this tour for £60 return (due at time of booking), from Manchester and other regional airports.

HOME