COTO DONANA AND EXTREMADURA

the classic Spanish birding itinerary

Red-necked Nightjar, Coto Donana 2004 by Phil Palmer

Spain is understandably one of the most popular foreign holiday venues for Birdwatchers from the UK. This trip offers some of the best birding in the country, taking in the delights of the Coto Donana, Extremadura and the Monfrague Mountains.

The rich variety of habitats are almost as exciting to anticipate as to actually see. Visualize the bird-rich coastal area, the scents of wooded mountains, the marismas of the Coto Donana, the dry steppeland of Extremadura, maquis scrub and cool reed fringed lakes... and then experience the reality. You will not be disappointed as one of the keynotes of this holiday will be the huge numbers of raptors, for which Spain is renowned.

Alongside these there will be many species typical of the Mediterranean as well as some of the rarest breeding birds in Europe. We have two reliable nest sites for the Spanish Imperial Eagle. In one of their last strongholds, Great Bustards will be seen displaying.

The thrill of the quest will take us on in pursuit of Crested Coots and White-headed Ducks, two of Europe's rarest breeding birds. Purple Gallinules can be watched at very close range attending to their tiny young and the rare Black Stork will be watched on her cliff-side nest.

By arranging a two-centre holiday we will have the benefit of a full range of habitats, where we can find most of Spain's special birds. The party will spend three nights at El Rocio on the edge of the Coto Donana followed by five nights at Trujillo in Extremadura.

El Rocio Cathederal (above).   Lesser Kestrel in Trujillo (right).

ITINERARY

THE COTO DONANA Europe's second largest delta, where the River Guadalquivir enters the Atlantic, is home to some of the rarest birds in Europe. Justifiably one of the world's most famous reserves, Donana plays host to large numbers of birds of prey. Time spent looking for Spanish Imperial Eagle should also yield many Black Kites along with Red Kites, Booted and Short-toed Eagles, Griffon Vultures and Marsh Harriers. Marshes at El Rocio provide a feeding ground for thousands of birds at the time of our visit.

Passage waders are numerous, particularly Little Stint, Dunlin, Curlew Sandpiper, Black-tailed Godwit, Black-winged Stilt, Avocet and Ringed Plover. Collared Pratincoles breed here in good numbers, and are regularly seen flashing their chestnut underwings as they chase flying insects. Spoonbills, Greater Flamingos and White Storks are common. Terns feeding over the marshes include Whiskered and Black, with the occasional Gull-billed, Caspian and White-winged Black. Pools and a reedbed at Acebuche give us the opportunity to watch at close range the Purple Gallinule.

Other birds seen include Little Bittern and Red-crested Pochard. Azure-winged Magpies are very common in nearby stone pines. Nearby, La Rocina holds similar species, plus many small birds including Savi's, Reed, Great Reed, Cetti's, Fan-tailed and Melodious Warblers, Crested Tit, Stonechat, Woodchat Shrike, Cirl Bunting and Short-toed Treecreeper. The endemic Spotless Starling is common. Another Iberian speciality found here is the Red-necked Nightjar. We shall try one or two reliable sites on evening visits.

A whole day will be required to explore the vast marismas from tracks which lead out from El Rocio. Hoopoe and Bee-eater, two of Europe's most colourful birds, are both very common here. There is a continuous presence of raptors, and other specialities include Marbled Duck, Calandra, Short-toed and Lesser Short-toed Larks and Spectacled Warbler, with the chance of Pin-tailed Sandgrouse. Other birds found throughout the whole of this fantastic area include Squacco and Night Herons, Little and Cattle Egrets, Kentish Plover, Yellow-legged Gull, Turtle Dove, Little Owl, Pallid Swift, Woodlark, Southern Grey Shrike and Nightingale.

On day four, after visiting some of the best sites in Europe, we will move on to Trujillo. On our way we will visit sites for White-headed Duck and Crested Coot. Though we may have seen them already these particular sites should provide excellent close range views. White-headed Duck came back from the brink of extinction in Spain in the late twentieth century and is now flourishing. Up to thirty birds can be seen at the breeding site we visit. The Crested Coot, one of the rarest breeding birds in Europe, is also present in small numbers.

Our hotel in El Rocio (left) and the colourful olive groves of Extremedura (right)

EXTREMADURA

The second part of the holiday is based at Trujillo, a beautiful town in the heart of Extremadura. Lesser Kestrels breed commonly in the town itself, and nearby the beautiful Roller is regularly seen hunting from telegraph wires. The main prize in this area is the Great Bustard and the region is one of its last strongholds. Flocks of up to 50 birds can be found. Its smaller relative, the Little Bustard is rather more widespread and is found singly or in pairs throughout this area.

Other species frequenting this dry steppe habitat include both Black-bellied and Pin-tailed Sandgrouse. Stone Curlews are widespread and the Montagu's Harrier is nowhere more common. The habitat is ideal for larks, Calandra and Short-toed being the most common. Both Crested and Thekla Lark also breed and care is required to separate them in the field. The Black-eared Wheatear, some with black throats, is typical of the area and Great Spotted Cuckoos can be surprisingly common in some years.

The old town of Trujillo (left) is our base in Extremedura and we will visit Monfrague National Park (right).

MONFRAGUE NATIONAL PARK

Not far from our hotel, the mountains of Monfrague offer what will be, for some, the highlight of the trip. Not only will we see birds of prey at very close range, but we will see them amongst beautiful scenery. We will visit two Spanish Imperial Eagle eyries which should both have young. The rare Black Vulture can be seen nesting in trees on a hillside and the adults regularly appear close to our viewpoint. The numerous Griffon Vultures and a pair of Bonelli's Eagles choose the cliffs by the River Tajo to nest. Furthermore, at one site we visited recently, an Egyptian Vulture could be watched on her nest, almost within pecking distance of a nesting Black Stork!

In recent years we have seen Eagle Owls at their cliff-side nest. Alpine Swifts can be watched hurtling through the sky and both Crag Martin and the beautiful Red-rumped Swallow favour this rocky area. Peregrine, Short-toed, Booted and Bonelli's Eagles are all regularly seen and there is the chance of adding Golden Eagle to complete the set.

Black Wheatears share the rocky terrain with Blue Rock Thrush and Black Redstart. Rock Buntings and Rock Sparrows are also present. In the wooded valleys there are Orphean and Subalpine Warblers, Golden Orioles, Hawfinch and Woodlarks. By giving ourselves five nights in Trujillo we can give ourselves enough time to get some of those difficult species that sometimes require a second try.

The Spanish Imperial Eagle nests in Monfrague.

PACE Breakfast will be taken at about 7.30am most mornings. Basic fitness is all that is required. Full days will be spent in the field and short/medium length walks on the flat will be undertaken. There will be little or no uphill walking.

ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD Full-board accommodation is provided, with three nights in the Hotel Toruno, El Rocio on the edge of the Coto Donana and five nights at the Hotel Victoria in Trujillo, Extremadura (left). All rooms have en suite bathrooms. Packed lunches will be taken every day. PRICE INCLUDES ….. All birdwatching excursions with expert leader, full-board accommodation, soft drinks at meal times, return flights, local transport by mini-bus, flight and airport taxes. WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED Cost of travel insurance, payable at the time of booking. Items of a personal nature, alcoholic drinks, laundry, etc.

INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS We will fly out from London Heathrow to Seville and will return from Madrid, using the scheduled services of British Airways. The outbound flight departs late afternoon and the return flight arrives back early evening. Connecting shuttle flights are available on this tour for £60 return (due at time of booking), from Manchester and other regional airports.

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