ROMANIA

autumn migration in the Danube Delta

Black-winged Stilts on the move.

The Danube Delta, formed where Europe's largest river meets the Black Sea, is by far and away the most impressive wetland site in Europe. Both in surface area and numbers of birds, other more frequently visited areas just do not compare. Many species such as White Pelican, Glossy Ibis, Great White Egret, Squacco Heron, Pygmy Cormorant, Whiskered Tern and Ferruginous Duck are found in higher numbers here than anywhere else in Europe.

At the time of this visit the breeding birds will be augmented by yet more on migration. The most obvious of these are the waders and we have found one site which is perhaps the best place in Europe to see Broad-billed Sandpiper. Over three hundred of these enigmatic little waders have been counted by our previous groups.

Our explorations will take us to marshes, reedbeds, willow-lined channels and the bird-filled lakes of the delta, followed by forays to riverine woodland and forested hills. We shall spend seven nights at Tulcea on the edge of the delta. Here we are ideally placed to explore the area by boat, as well as making forays by road to the other sites.

ITINERARY

THE DANUBE DELTA

Situated on the southern edge of the delta, the town of Tulcea is ideally placed to explore the many willow-fringed channels, lakes and reedbeds. Our holiday is land-based (most Romanian 'floatels' are not too comfortable), but during the holiday we will enjoy two boat trips into the delta. From a boat it is possible to see hundreds of White Pelicans wheel overhead, with similar numbers feeding on the same lake you are floating on. It is often difficult to believe that you are still in Europe. Pygmy Cormorants, Glossy Ibis, Little Egrets, Squacco and Night Herons are all very numerous.

In the delta quantity is the watchword, but there is also great quality. Red-necked and Black-necked Grebes are found on the larger lakes and the herons, including Purple Heron, Great White Egret and Bittern are well represented. Good numbers of Spoonbills can be seen and the prehistoric-looking Glossy Ibis is nowhere more common. Black Storks wheel high above the forests of the delta and large flocks of White Storks will be passing through. Pochard, Garganey and Ferruginous Duck are the most numerous wildfowl. They are occasionally disturbed by a hunting White-tailed Eagle. Caspian Terns are always present alongside numerous Black and Whiskered Terns. Coots are the commonest birds on the lakes, often numbering in their thousands, while Water Rails and Moorhen keep to the reedy edges.

Just south of the delta, near Murighol, there are two lakes which are always worth a visit. Avocets number in the hundreds. They are joined by passage waders which include Ruff, Grey Plover, Turnstone and Curlew Sandpiper. The prize here on our recent visits has been groups of Red-necked Phalaropes spinning on the water.

THE BABADAG FOREST

The whole area inland of Tulcea is hilly and much of it is still forested. The hills rise to almost 500 metres at Mount Greci and as a consequence the bird life is quite different to the other areas visited. In the dry oak forests we shall look for the localised Sombre Tit. At a drinking pool in the forest we should get close views of Hawfinch, Yellowhammer, Nuthatch, Great Spotted Woodpecker and Marsh Tit.

A full day will be utilised exploring a superb area of forest near Mount Greci. Our visits here have produced sightings of Middle Spotted, Lesser Spotted, Grey-headed and Black Woodpecker (right, P Willoughby), Serin, Hawfinch and Yellowhammer. Raptors breed more commonly here than in other areas and we have been rewarded with good views of Levant Sparrowhawk, Lesser Spotted Eagle, Booted Eagle, Goshawk and Short-toed Eagle. We shall see species which are absent from much of coastal Romania and these include Turtle Dove, Syrian Woodpecker, Hoopoe, Whitethroat and Lesser Whitethroat, Red-breasted Flycatcher, Nightingale, Icterine Warbler, Ortolan Bunting, Jay and Golden Oriole. Equally stunning are the beautiful Bee-eaters which occur in large numbers. Red-backed Shrikes are one of the commonest birds, their numbers swollen by young. In surrounding farmland Lesser Grey Shrikes can be found.

LAKE SINOIE

To the south of the delta lies Lake Sinoie, a huge bird-filled lake. Hundreds, sometimes thousands of pelicans feed here, mostly Whites, but with a few of the rare Dalmatians. On a previous visit we were fortunate to watch a large flock of White Pelicans round-up shoals of fish, in a large circle moving inwards all the time. Once the fish were sufficiently concentrated the pelicans began feeding, as did an opportunistic Caspian Tern overhead! As well as Dalmatian Pelican, the other rare European breeder here is the Ruddy Shelduck.

At the southern end of Lake Sinoie is Histria, one of the best birdwatching sites in Europe. Hundreds of Whiskered Terns breed here and at the time of our visit the last few young will be about to fledge. There are also good numbers of both Black and White-winged Black Terns, offering useful lessons in identification. Gull-billed Tern is numerous throughout the whole area and migrant Caspian Terns provide one of the highlights.

Waders are literally everywhere. Black-winged Stilt, Black-tailed Godwit, Curlew, Oystercatcher, Ruff, Ringed and Kentish Plover, Curlew Sandpiper, Dunlin, Little Stint, Temminck's Stint, Wood Sandpiper, Greenshank, Spotted Redshank and Marsh Sandpiper are among the most numerous. However, pride of place among the waders must surely go to the Broad-billed Sandpiper. This scarce bird which breeds in Scandinavia is quite difficult to find elsewhere in Europe. Here, however, large flocks are a regular sight. In the drier areas Collared Pratincoles and Stone Curlews breed alongside Tawny Pipits and Calandra Larks.

Raptors are frequently seen, mainly the numerous Marsh Harriers which quarter the marshes along with Montagu's and Hen Harrier. Saker, Pallid Harrier, White-tailed Eagle, Long-legged Buzzard, Hobby, Red-footed Falcon, and Short-toed and Booted Eagles have all been seen on our previous visits. The first two of these are, however, rather rare and cannot be relied upon. Stopping frequently along a road, which leads to Lake Sinoie, we will check the reedbeds which hold a good population of Little Bitterns, a few crakes, Bearded Tits and a lot of warblers. We have been lucky in the past to have had excellent views of both Little and Spotted Crakes; perhaps this year we will see a Baillon's.

With a little patience good views of the warblers can be obtained. These include Great Reed, Reed and Sedge, as well as a few localized Paddyfield Warblers, which breed here in their westernmost outpost. On a previous visit the spectacle of bird migration was very evident when, in the evening, large numbers of birds were seen to fly south along the coast. In just over half an hour we counted a staggering 1040 Purple Herons, 260 Glossy Ibis and 120 Pygmy Cormorants!

PACE Breakfast will be taken at about 7.30am most mornings, perhaps slightly later if the previous day has been tiring. On one day breakfast will be at 7am, to facilitate an early start into the delta. Basic fitness is all that is required. Full days will be spent in the field and short/medium length walks on the flat will be undertaken regularly. There will be little or no uphill walking.

ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD Full-board accommodation will be provided with seven nights at the Hotel Rex in Tulcea. This is a new hotel, opened in 2003, with excellent rooms and good food and service. All rooms are en-suite. Packed lunches will be provided every day. PRICE INCLUDES ….. All birdwatching excursions with expert leader, full-board accommodation, soft drinks at meal times, local transport by mini-bus, two boat trips into the delta, return flight to Bucharest, and flight and airport taxes. WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED Cost of travel insurance, payable at the time of booking. Items of a personal nature, alcoholic drinks, laundry, etc.

INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Flights are from London Heathrow to Bucharest using the scheduled services of British Airways. Outbound flight departs mid-morning, return flight arrives back early evening. Connecting shuttle flights are available on this tour for £60 return (due at time of booking), from Manchester and other regional airports.

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