ESTONIA

migration and breeding birds in an unspoiled corner of Europe

Citrine Wagtails have become regular breeding birds since we started visiting Estonia. Phil Palmer.

for more photos see our Photo Album

From time to time various countries catch the imagination of the traveling birdwatcher, and become very popular almost overnight. Estonia is rapidly becoming a favourite. Having been one of the first groups to visit the country after the collapse of the Soviet Union and completed four successful trips to this Baltic country, we have been enthralled by the surprises that it has to offer. With its Siberian-like forests, Scandinavian peat-bogs, watermeadows full of geese and waders, and fascinating coastline together with a small human population, empty roads and excellent infrastructure we found it impossible to fault .

Our quest for Great Snipe, vast flocks of Barnacle Geese, numerous Ruff, Long-tailed Duck, White-tailed Eagle, Lesser Spotted Eagle, grouse, owls, woodpeckers, Thrush Nightingale, River Warbler, Common Rosefinch and other eastern migrants will see us visiting a substantial portion of this small country.

Estonia's wetlands are situated on the Baltic migrant flyway and used as a brief stopover for migrants en route to Siberia. The birdwatching record books are being re-written as birders log amazing numbers of migrants. The timing of our visit is critical. Any earlier and few of the summer migrants would have arrived. Any later and the spectacular wildfowl migration would be past its peak. Get it just right, as we consistently have, and it is possible to see thousands of ducks and geese, watch the lekking antics of Ruff and Great Snipe and listen to the song of Thrush Nightingale, Savi's Warbler and Common Rosefinch.

It is also possible to extend your stay with some time in the walled Medieval City of Tallinn.

Common Rosefinch - male near our hotel at Lihula (left) & Bluethroat - male at Matsalu (right). Phil Palmer.

ITINERARY

MATSALU BAY

Having arrived at Tallinn, we will drive straight to Lihula, a journey of 70 miles. Situated at the edge of Estonia's premier reserve, Lihula is an ideal base for Matsalu Bay, as well as for visiting the South Vainameri Straits. Matsalu is one of the most important wetlands in Europe; a vast coastal bay, where deciduous and mixed forest gives way to water-meadows, huge reedbeds and a large but shallow lagoon, interspersed with numerous small inlets and islands. Ruffs lek; Bitterns boom; White-tailed Eagles hunt nervous wildfowl, and Fieldfare nest colonially in villages.

Wrynecks are fairly common, and we will check the flooded fields for Garganey, Whooper Swan, Spotted Redshank, Black Tern, Smew and three species of harrier.

White Storks are common here, nesting in close proximity to farmhouses, and the rare Black Stork is possible. One day we will look for migrating birds using the South-Vainameri Straits. A staggering one million Long-tailed Ducks pass through Vainemeri on migration, peaking in early to mid-May. We can expect to see good numbers, along with Velvet and Common Scoter, Goldeneye, Eider and Black-throated and Red-throated Divers.

Migration can be unpredictable, but has the potential to provide surprises. On one visit, raptor migration was very obvious here with Golden, White-tailed and Lesser Spotted Eagles coming in off the sea. They were accompanied by Rough-legged Buzzard, Osprey, Hobby and Common Crane. On other visits Long-tailed Duck and Divers have been moving through.

The Estonian landscape has changed little in the 20th century. Coastal meadows (left) are full of cowslips, while enormous reedbeds fringe Matsalu Bay (right). Phil Palmer.

Barnacle Geese use the area as a rest stop en route north, and up to ten thousand birds can be seen, again peaking in mid-May. Smaller numbers of Bean Geese and White-fronts should also be present. Last year a concerted effort produced a vagrant Red-breasted Goose among them.

Waders present include summer plumage Ruff, Black-tailed Godwit, Turnstone and Avocet, whilst numerous terns can include Caspian, Little, Arctic and Sandwich. In broadleaf forest Thrush Nightingale will be singing, having just arrived from African wintering grounds. Elsewhere this is a difficult species, but we have enjoyed amazing views of this skulker on each trip. Attractive woodland flowers should just be coming into bloom. Camberwell Beauties may be seen sunbathing, while Icterine Warblers and Red-breasted Flycatchers sing from the trees. Even in the towns, Fieldfares provide entertainment as they see off Jackdaws and Hooded Crows.

Although the Thrush Nightingale is common, it can be very difficult to see without experience.Phil Palmer.

NIGULA BOG

On day four we will drive south down the coast to Haademeeste, a small town ideally situated to visit the famous Nigula Bog, as well as nearby Kabli observatory. Our hotel is situated in a delightful area, where short walks have produced sightings of such diverse birds as Common Rosefinch, Pied Flycatcher, Parrot Crossbill, Capercaillie and Grey-headed Wagtail.

A short drive will bring us to Nigula Bog where we will see a wonderful example of a raised peat bog, one of the most threatened habitats in Europe. Although short on bird species the experience of looking into the bottomless inky black pools is not to be missed. Plants are exciting here, with Bog Rosemary very common. Black Stork, Black Grouse, Capercaillie and Lesser Spotted Eagle all nest in the area, but can be hard to find. On previous trips we have enjoyed incredible views of Ural Owl and Greater Spotted Eagle in nearby taiga forest.

Common Crane and Wood Sandpiper are a regular sight, breeding in the bog, whilst Greenshank and Whimbrel drop in. Occasional Northern Grey Shrikes can be seen perched on stunted pine trees and Goldeneye nest by the pools. Walking across the peat bog on a boardwalk we will reach an ancient wooded 'island' where Parrot Crossbill (in invasion years), 'Northern' Bullfinch, 'Northern' Nuthatch, 'Boreal' Willow Tit, (all northern races of familiar birds) and White-backed Woodpecker can sometimes be found. Nigula Bog has a primevil atmosphere and the nesting Common Gulls add to this. Phil Palmer. On day six we will check extensive reedbeds and ponds along the Baltic shore. Early risers may have already seen the visible migration from the hotel, as wildfowl and waders head north. These include Velvet Scoters, Common Scoters, Little Gulls and Black-throated Divers. The coastal ponds hold good numbers of nesting Penduline Tit, Great Reed Warbler, Bittern and Garganey, while migrants seen here in the past have included Red-backed Shrike and both white-spotted and red-spotted Bluethroats. Beaver are secretive here but have been seen on quiet evenings.

Ospreys and Common Cranes use the pines in the dunes to guide them northwards; visible migration is one of Estonia's strengths.

TARTU

Later we will head east to Tartu, for our final two nights. Here we will check the marshes for migrant waders and wildfowl. Black Terns nest on floating vegetation, while Little Gulls form large feeding flocks that periodically break away to drive off a marauding harrier or Goshawk. An adult with its pink flush to its breast is one of the daintiest of gulls.

Penduline Tits (above), Wrynecks, Common Rosefinch and Redwing nest in the copses and Savi's Warblers reel from the reedbeds. Migrant geese may still be moving through, as Bean and White-fronted are regular. River Warbler and Corncrake should be declaring territorial boundaries. Coastal forests near Nigula (left). photos Phil Palmer

In the evening we will look for lekking Great Snipe, with the possibility of seeing a Ural Owl, Woodcock and Nightjar on our way back to the hotel. There are plenty of sites to choose from. These include peat bogs, large fishponds, flooded meadows or taiga forest. The list of possible species is almost endless. Hazelhen, Black Woodpecker and Nutcracker are possible in the woods, although the white-breasted Scandinavian race Nuthatches, Red-breasted Flycatcher and Wood Warbler are more likely. On recent trips we found nesting Marsh Sandpiper and Citrine Wagtail near Tartu, both extremely rare in Estonia.

Estonia is one of the few European countries to retain a healthy population of Beaver, Brown Bear and Moose. All are naturally shy and very difficult to see, but we have seen them or their tracks on our previous tours. Estonia is a wonderful land that gives a glimpse of how much of Western Europe used to be before the ravages of modern man took their toll. It holds annual surprises, as migration is very unpredictable but always rewarding.

TALLINN EXTENSION Although not part of our birdwatching tour, it is possible to extend your stay with some time in the walled Medieval City of Tallinn (left)

PACE Breakfast will be taken at about 7.30am, perhaps slightly later if the previous day has been tiring. Basic fitness is all that is required. Full days will be spent in the field and short/medium length walks on the flat will be undertaken regularly. There are no uphill walks.

ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD Full-board accommodation is provided with three nights at the Hotel Luige Villa (left), near Matsalu, two nights at the Lepanina Hotel, near Nigula and two nights in a Rehe Hotel at Tartu. All hotels are of good standard and all rooms have en suite facilities. The hotels are all new, opening in, 1999, 1997 and 1997 respectively. Packed lunches will be taken every day.

PRICE INCLUDES ….. All birdwatching excursions with expert leader, full-board accommodation, local transport by mini-bus, reserve entrance fees and guiding fees, soft drinks at meal-times, return flight to Tallinn, and flight and airport taxes.

WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED Cost of travel insurance, payable at the time of booking; items of a personal nature, alcoholic drinks, laundry, etc.

INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Return flights from London Heathrow to Tallinn (via Helsinki) using the scheduled services of Finnair. Outbound flight departs mid-morning, with return landing late afternoon. Connecting shuttle flights are available on this tour for £60 return (due at time of booking), from Manchester and other regional airports.

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