FALSTERBO AND ÖLAND

Swedish bird migration at its best

Falsterbo is ranked alongside Gibraltar and the Bosphorus as one of Europe's premier visible migration sites. Its name is synonymous with spectacular bird movements, and in particular raptors. Every autumn an estimated 500 million birds migrate through southern Scandinavia. The Baltic Sea is the first difficult hurdle they have to cross. By taking the shortest route across water, they increase their chances of survival. Many therefore follow the west coasts of Sweden until they reach Falsterbo and the shortest crossing.

On peak days you can see hundreds of thousands of birds migrating at Nabben, the south-western point of the Falsterbo peninsula. Most spectacular is the migration of raptors, but for sheer numbers, the finches take some beating. An incredible half a million Brambling and Chaffinches can pass through in a single morning and it is possible to sit and watch large flocks heading out over the Kattegat towards Denmark.

The beautiful island of Öland is a World Heritage Site with a prehistoric feel to the landscape. Indeed, ancient burial mounds are found dotted about the countryside. The limestone bedrock was scraped clean by glaciers, so thin soil or a lichen carpet provides a resting place for migrants. The observatory lighthouse at Ottenby provides the perfect setting to see resting passerines, wildfowl, waders and their attendant predators. Birds migrating from Siberia follow a route through Estonia, island-hopping across the sea past Götland and Öland before moving on to mainland Sweden. Numbers at Öland can be incredible with large flocks of cranes and geese en route to the Low Countries.

Our tour is based at Falsterbo for three nights and the island of Öland for three nights. This places us in the best position to observe nature's migration miracle.

Cranes in flight over Oland.

ITINERARY - FALSTERBO

Having arrived at Copenhagen airport we will drive via the Oresund bridge and tunnel which crosses a ten-mile wide part of the Baltic Sea into Sweden. We then head on to Falsterbo, our base for the first three nights. The journey time is approximately one hour. After checking in at the hotel, we will spend the remaining daylight hours on the coast. The reedbeds can provide a safe haven for hundreds of buntings, warblers and hirundines.

To experience the best of migration here we do not follow a set itinerary. Instead, we look at weather patterns and speak to observatory staff at the lighthouse to try to predict where the biggest numbers of birds will be. We may venture out in the early morning to Nabben Point where the first flocks of Bramblings, Chaffinches, Starlings, pipits and buntings will be heading out to sea. Observatory volunteers patiently sit and count them all and will point out any rarity they note.

Harriers and Sparrowhawks are early risers and often follow the passerine flocks out to sea. These birds may make frequent trial sea-crossing attempts, returning if conditions are not in their favour. They then spend time quartering the point in search of food. A backlog of birds blocked by bad weather may allow us to find scarce species such as Lapland Bunting, Richard's or Red-throated Pipits. Penduline and Bearded Tits may be sheltering in the reeds, while Black Woodpeckers have been found in the lighthouse gardens!

A Montagu's Harrier rests on Öland & a Honey Buzzard flies over Falsterbo. Phil Palmer

Numerous rarities have graced Falsterbo over the years, but it is the migration spectacle that is most memorable. Picking out Woodlarks from Skylark flocks or separating migrating Tree and Meadow Pipits is our challenge. The large diurnal passage is a completely new experience for many.

If the weather is against them, the raptors move several miles inland to the 'Lake District'. If things are quiet on the coast, we will head into this area to search for them. Golden Eagles breed here and in the past we have seen them in the company of Red Kites, Rough-legged Buzzards and Lesser Spotted Eagles. We have also found Crossbill and Black Woodpecker in this area.

ÖLAND

On day four we will drive north-east to the island of Öland for the second part of our trip. A bridge connects the island with the mainland and the journey takes about three hours. This wonderful island is dominated by alvar heathland with scattered, stunted junipers. This land, grazed since the Bronze Age, has inspired many artists and provides a temporary staging-ground for thousands of migrating cranes and geese.

Around the coast, the meadows fall gently into the Baltic Sea, the shallow water providing roosting and feeding sites for waders, gulls and wildfowl. In turn these attract White-tailed Eagles, Rough-legged Buzzards and Hen Harriers. The Ruff, Snipe and Black-tailed Godwits that bred in the fields now feed by the shore with Pintail, Wigeon, and Barnacle and Brent Geese. Red-backed and Northern Grey Shrikes may be seen chasing tired migrants such as Redstarts, Pied Flycatchers and Goldcrests.

Ottenby is a famous observatory lighthouse at the southern tip of the island where birds seek shelter in poor weather. On a previous visit, two Long-eared Owls sat in a small tree being mobbed by the small birds that had only just accompanied them across the Baltic!

Further north, we counted 1,000 Robins in the small garden at Segerstad lighthouse. Although there was a single Red-breasted Flycatcher there, it was the sheer numbers of the common species that was the highlight. Mergansers, eiders, scoters, cranes and thousands of geese can be seen moving along the coast. While many pass by offshore, it is also possible to see species associated with a sea-passage, such as Black-throated Diver, fly overhead. White Storks and Little Gulls may also moving in large numbers.

Of course, large movements or falls of birds are dependent on weather patterns and so nothing is guaranteed. It is the discovery of the unexpected that make birding at this time of year so exciting. Beautiful Öland has shallow soils topping a limestone bed named "Alvar" land. It is dotted with windmills and stone circles. The activities of Bronze age man and the vikings has enhanced the atmosphere of this peaceful place. On day seven we will head back to Copenhagen, in good time for our flight home.

PACE Breakfast will normally be taken at 7.30am. On mornings when an optional pre-breakfast excursion is planned breakfast will be later. Basic fitness is all that is required. Full days will be spent in the field and short/medium length walks will be undertaken regularly. There will be no uphill walking.

ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD Full board accommodation is provided with three nights at the Hotel Spelabacken in Falsterbo and three nights at the Gammalsby Garden Hotel, a lovely converted farm building, in Öland. All rooms have en suite bathrooms. Packed lunches will be taken every day.

The Garden Hotel above is a wonderful converted farmhouse with traditional cooking.

PRICE INCLUDES ….. All birdwatching excursions with expert leader, full-board accommodation, soft drinks at meal times, local transport by mini-bus, bridge tolls, reserve entrance fees, flight to Copenhagen, and flight and airport taxes.

WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED Cost of travel insurance, payable at the time of booking. Items of a personal nature, alcoholic drinks, laundry, etc.

INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Return flight from London Heathrow to Copenhagen, using the scheduled services of Scandinavian Airways. Outbound flight departs mid-day, return flight arrives back mid-afternoon. Connecting shuttle flights are available on this tour for £60 return (due at time of booking), from Manchester and other regional airports.

HOME