THE GAMBIA

a huge number of African bird species less than six hours flight away

The Yellow-crowned Gonolek is a garden bird in the Gambia. the Giant Kingfisher is found at Abuko,

Paul Willoughby & Andy Woodall

This tiny country has much to offer to anyone who loves tropical birding and wildlife watching. Birds include such stars as Egyptian Plover, Hammerkop, African Pygmy Goose, Bateleur, African Finfoot, Black Crowned-Crane, Four-banded Sandgrouse, Verreaux's Eagle-owl, Northern Carmine Bee-eater and Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher. It has an array of reserves and birding sites along the short coastal strip and some excellent birding up-river.

It is less than a six hour flight from the UK, with no change in time zone, being roughly on the same line of longitude and yet a world away in terms of weather at this time of year. November is generally very warm and almost always completely dry. The Gambia is geared up to tourism, especially along the coast where there is a good infrastructure and plenty of birding to be had all within a short distance of our hotel. Hotel grounds themselves are often very good for birds here too. The people are very friendly, and as we go up river where relatively few holidaymakers venture, you will experience a quite different Gambia to the coastal strip. This really feels like sub-Saharan Africa …which it is!

Being the start of the dry season, this is an excellent time for watching wildlife. Birds will be very active and vocal with many migrants passing through or coming in and out of the area. Red Colobus and Green Vervet Monkeys are common. There is a good chance of other mammals such as Hippos, Fruit Bats, Warthogs and the rare antelope, the Sitatunga. We should see several species of reptile including Nile Crocodile and Monitor Lizard. As well as many different butterflies, there are such fascinating creatures as Mudskippers, Praying Mantises, Giant Millipedes and Fiddler Crabs.

Red-billed Hornbills can be found in the grounds of our hotel. Paul Willoughby

ITINERARY

THE COAST

We will spend the first seven nights at our hotel by the coast where there is plenty to keep us occupied. We should arrive early afternoon and for those who wish there will be some birdwatching in the hotel grounds where we can expect to find a wide range of species. It is the kind of tropical garden where new birds can be added to our list everyday and where the regulars include Hooded Vulture, the characterful Bearded Barbet and the amazingly colourful Yellow-crowned Gonolek. At least four species of Glossy Starling are regular in the gardens and are not as difficult to sort out as they may first appear. We will take it easy on the first full day and visit some sites that are all within a mile or two of the hotel.

A look out to sea may produce diving Gannets, Pomarine Skuas, Grey-headed Gulls, Slender-billed Gulls and Caspian Terns. The nearby creeks and saltmarshes have a good range of waders such as Whimbrel, Marsh, Green and Wood Sandpipers. Plover species include Spur-winged, Black-headed and Kittlitz's. At some nearby ponds we can expect White-faced Whistling Ducks and perhaps a Greater Painted-snipe. These are next to the golf course which is a regular site for African Scops Owl and Pearl-spotted Owlet.

ABUKO

The next day will see us at Abuko. This world famous nature reserve is less than half an hour's drive from our hotel and is one of those exciting places where many rarities are possible and many common birds are easily seen.

It is also a good place for mammals, such as monkeys and the Sitatunga. The pools hold some very large Nile Crocodiles (Right - Paul Willoughby) On a previous visit we came across a White-backed Night-heron here along with superb views of a roosting Verreaux's Eagle-owl. Another speciality here is the charmingly named and exquisitely marked White-spotted Flufftail while more easily seen regulars include Giant and Woodland Kingfishers.

In the heat of the day we will retire to Lamin Lodge, a pleasant restaurant and wildlife centre where we can have a late lunch and then bird the surrounding rice fields in the latter part of the afternoon.

PIRANG

On another day we will visit Pirang fish ponds where there is a huge aquaculture development. The pools attract a mass of birds and are one of our favourite sites. Besides many ducks and waders it is a great place for hirundines, raptors, White and Pink-backed Pelicans, Purple Herons and the very attractive African Quailfinch. Pirang though is most famous for its Crowned Cranes and though not guaranteed we stand a good chance of seeing them here.

On the same day we will do a safari drive at Fantaba Banta; a great way of seeing raptors and many other species. This will take us to the Senegal border where we will visit the Seleti waterholes and spend the late afternoon and early evening watching for birds and other wildlife coming to drink. The star attraction here is the Four-banded Sandgrouse but a displaying Long-tailed Paradise-whydah provided some competition on the last visit.

On other days whilst on the coast we will visit several of the smaller reserves and well known birding spots. One day we will visit Brufut Woods in the morning followed by lunch at a very pleasant nearby lodge. We can expect Pin-tailed Whydah, Red-cheeked Cordonbleu and African Golden Oriole. In the afternoon we will pay a visit to Tanji beach. This should produce many terns; Common, Sandwich, Royal and Caspian all by the hundreds and smaller numbers of Lesser Crested. Marakissa, Yundum, and Bijillo are all areas we may well visit and with a week in this area a second visit to Abuko may be possible.

If anybody wants time out to relax by the pool, visit the beach or the very inexpensive shops and markets they are welcome to do so. In fact this holiday with all its tourist facilities would be ideal for bringing along a non-birding partner.

Rufous-crowned Roller (left) and Blue-bellied Roller (right) are easily spotted as they sit on exposed perches.

Both photos. Paul Willoughby

TENDABA, GEORGETOWN & BEYOND

On day eight we will drive to Tendaba camp stopping at several sites on the way. We will stay three nights here on the bank of the river and do at least one boat trip through the mangrove creeks. We shall also visit nearby Bateling Woods. On day eleven we will take a leisurely drive to Georgetown with several stops for birding and a picnic lunch. Wetlands, woodlands and ricefields along the way provide some excellent birds. This may be the day when we get our first sighting of Egyptian Plover.

Georgetown is on an island in the river and we will spend three nights here at Georgetown Safari Bird Camp. Excellent birding is available around the grounds here and several species of owl can be heard from our beds. We will make a special optional night-time walk to try and see some of them by torchlight. Last year we had remarkable views of Four-banded Sandgrouse almost within touching distance in the grounds.

On the first full day here we will drive up to Basse, the most easterly town of any size in the Gambia. This is our best spot for Egyptian Plover. Not only are they highly likely here but they can also be very confiding and several can be seen at the river edge alongside women washing clothes. Near Basse there is also some excellent habitat comprising scrub, ricefields and small ponds where we should be able to find Northern Carmine Bee-eater along with several raptors, including Black-shouldered Kite, Ruppell's Griffon Vulture, Brown Snake-eagle, Western Banded Snake-eagle and Gabar Goshawk. Black Crake is also found here.

The following day we will take another boat trip starting from the camp and slowly going down several miles of the Gambia River. This is a great way to birdwatch and besides many new species of birds we have an excellent chance to see monkeys, hippos and crocodiles. We will return to camp for lunch and a siesta before setting out later to visit some local wetlands that are excellent for herons, wildfowl and waders. One of the highlights here was some great views of African Pygmy-goose.

Levaillant's Cuckoo (left) is scarce but Spur-winged Plovers (right) are near most water bodies. Paul Willoughby

After another night at the Bird Camp we will take a walk locally in the morning and then drive back to Tendaba for our last night. We may take an additional boat trip either from Georgetown or Tendaba depending on time and if there are any target species still left to see!

Finally, on day 15 we will drive back to the airport in good time for our flight back to the UK.

Gambia sunset by Andy Woodall

PACE There will be several optional pre-breakfast walks. Breakfast will be taken at about 7.30am most mornings, perhaps slightly later if the previous day has been tiring. Basic fitness is all that is required. Full days will be spent in the field and short walks on the flat will be undertaken regularly.

ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD Full-board accommodation is provided with seven nights at the Senegambia Hotel at Kololi, three nights at Tendaba Camp, three nights at Georgetown Safari Bird Camp and the last night back at Tendaba. Away from the coast the accommodation comprises chalets/huts and permanent tents on concrete bases, all with en suite facilities. They are clean and fairly spacious. Packed lunches will be taken some days, whilst on other days we will return to the camps.

PRICE INCLUDES ….. All birdwatching excursions with expert leader and local guide, boat trips, full-board accommodation, soft drinks at meal times, local transport by mini-bus, reserve entrance fees, international flight to the Gambia and airport taxes.

WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED Cost of travel insurance, payable at the time of booking. Items of a personal nature, alcoholic drinks, laundry, etc.

INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Return flight from either London Gatwick, Bristol or Manchester to Banjul using the charter services of First Choice Airways. Outbound flight departs early morning, return flight arrives back late evening.

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