GOA AND KARNATAKA

an amazing variety of birds in a colourful and friendly destination

The Indian Roller is common but the Malabar Pied Hornbill is a much sought after bird here. P Willoughby

Goa has quickly established itself as a most attractive destination, where guaranteed sunshine can dispel the gloom experienced during a cold, damp British winter. For the slightly more adventurous, this is a great holiday destination, with mile after mile of palm-fringed, golden beaches, warm seas and friendly locals. A couple of hours drive inland takes us to the cool forested mountains of Karnataka and the Dandeli Wildlife Sanctuary. From the comfort of our excellent lodge, we will search for exciting birds and mammals, on foot, by jeep and by boat.

Throughout the trip there is an abundance of excellent habitats; huge river estuaries to monsoon forests; mangrove swamps to lowland jungle; and bird-filled lakes to dry scrubland. Consequently, the bird life is rich and varied, giving an excellent introduction to Indian birds as well as offering a number of Western Ghat endemics. Resident birds are joined by winter visitors from Siberia and the Himalayas.

The bird list from our previous visits is truly outstanding with highlights including Chestnut Bittern, Lesser Adjutant Stork, Slaty-breasted Banded Rail, Great Knot, Small Pratincole, Brown Fish Owl, Brown Wood Owl, Brown Hawk Owl, Ceylon Frogmouth, Malabar Trogon, Three-toed Kingfisher, Blue-bearded Bee-eater, Indian Great Black Woodpecker, Indian Banded Bay Cuckoo, Indian Blue Robin, Forest Wagtail, Indian Pitta and Little Spiderhunter. Bird Holidays was the first company to organise tours to this exciting destination and no one knows its birdlife better.

ITINERARY

GOA

Our main base will be on the coast at Calangute. Ideally situated to explore Goa's richest sites, we will spend a total of eight nights here. A few minutes drive away is the village of Baga, famous as a resort and one of the original retreats of the hippies that came here in the late 1960's. The variety of habitats here is outstanding. In the marshes there are Painted Snipes, Chestnut Bitterns, Watercocks, Indian Spotted Eagles and superb Black-capped Kingfishers. On a wooded hillside we will look for Amur Falcon, Common Peafowl, Black-rumped Flameback, White-spotted Fantail-flycatcher, Yellow-cheeked Tit and Crimson Sunbird, whilst in drier areas there are Rose-coloured Starlings, Yellow-wattled Lapwings, Indian Nightjars, Indian Robins and Ashy-crowned Finch-larks. These are in addition to the many common species which abound; Smyrna Kingfishers, Purple-rumped Sunbirds, Plum-headed Parakeets, Brahminy Kites, Great White Egrets, Little Green Bee-eaters and Red-rumped Swallows. Close to our hotel, a wooded hill at Saligao is home to Asian Paradise Flycatchers, endemic Malabar Whistling Thrushes, Puff-throated Babblers and, with luck, the unusual-looking Brown Wood Owl.

Another site nearby has proved reliable for the endemic Indian Pitta. The bird spectacle at Carambolin Lake is the most impressive in Goa. Most of the lake is covered with lilies and other aquatic vegetation, allowing the gallinules and jacanas to walk right across it. Purple Gallinules, Pheasant-tailed and Bronze-winged Jacanas, Little Cormorants, Intermediate Egrets, Lesser Whistling Ducks and Garganey are among the most numerous species. Both Indian Shag and Indian Darter can also be found. Raptors hunting over the lake may include Greater Spotted and Booted Eagles. The list of other scarce and exciting possibilities is just too long to include.

The Mandovi River estuary and its associated mangroves and marshes on Chorao Island are a veritable haven for birds. At low tide hundreds of Indian Pond Herons stalk their prey alongside numerous Western Reef Herons. Waders include Lesser Sand Plover, Terek and Broad-billed Sandpipers, and Little and Temminck's Stints. Walking on a raised bank through mangroves we should find Green-backed, Purple and Night Herons, and Lesser Adjutant Stork.

A boat trip on the backwaters here should produce close views of the very local White-collared Kingfisher. Further north, the River Chapora meets the Arabian Sea. Here the magnificent White-bellied Sea Eagle shares its home with Great Black-headed Gulls, numerous Brown-headed Gulls and Siberian Gulls. Crested and Lesser Crested Terns can be compared at close range.

THE WESTERN GHATS

On day seven we will head inland, stopping first for two nights at Ponda, a town ideally placed to explore Bondla. Bondla is a small forest reserve with a remarkable diversity of bird life. It is situated on the edge of the Western Ghats, the mountain range which runs down the length of India's west coast. Purple, Small and the endemic Loten's Sunbird all busily move from one flowering plant to the next. Black-naped, Tickell's Blue, Brown and White-bellied Blue Flycatchers are all here in good numbers.

Babblers here include the endemic Black-headed. Greater Racket-tailed Drongos do indeed make a racket as they fly over the tree tops, calling excitedly. Bulbuls are represented by Yellow-browed, White-browed, Red-vented and Red-whiskered. However, the prize among these birds goes to the endemic red-throated race of the Black-headed Yellow Bulbul. Thrushes include the stunning Orange-headed Ground Thrush and Blue-headed Rock Thrush.

From Ponda we will also visit a working spice farm, where we can see a variety of plants and trees which produce the spices for which the region's cooking is famed. The farm is located in the forest; huge trees providing shelter from the sun in the heat of the day. Birds abound here too; the Little Spiderhunter is more reliable here than at any other site.

On day nine we will drive across the state border and into Karnataka, spending four nights near Dandeli Wildlife Sanctuary. We will stay at the Bison River Lodge, a picturesque spot surrounded by good habitat. The Kali River flows through the garden and on our recent visit we saw five species of kingfisher in the grounds.

We will take a boat trip from the lodge's private jetty through beautiful wooded countryside, in search of Grey-headed Fishing Eagle. Malabar Pied Hornbill and Malabar Grey Hornbill are both common. Less common is the Great Pied Hornbill, one of India's most impressive birds. On short walks from the lodge we will look for forest birds such as Blue-bearded Bee-eater and Indian Great Black Woodpecker. In the evening Ceylon Frogmouths call; we saw a pair a few hundred metres from the lodge on our last visit. Dandeli Wildlife Sanctuary is a national reserve and is well protected. We will explore it on jeep safaris.

Mammals are regularly seen, including Indian Elephant, Palm Civet, Chital, Indian Bison, Muntjac and Malabar Giant Squirrel. There is even the possibility of Leopard, Bengal Tiger and Sloth Bear!

Fairy Bluebirds shine in the sunlight and both Golden-fronted and Blue-winged Leafbirds can be seen feeding in flowering trees. Scarlet Minivets chase each other around the tree tops. Chestnut-headed Bee-eaters are fairly common in the clearings. Barbets call incessantly and include the endemic Crimson-throated. The prettiest woodpecker in the forest must be the dainty Heart-spotted Woodpecker.

Pairs of this endearing little bird, with heart-shaped spots on their tertial feathers flit from branch to branch. Raptors are frequently seen and include both White-backed and Long-billed Vulture. Both Crested and Rufous-bellied Hawk-eagle breed here and the strange-looking Crested Serpent Eagle is common. On day 13 we will drive back to the coast for our final three nights. With so many excellent sites we will have plenty to occupy ourselves before we reluctantly head home.

PACE Breakfast will normally be taken at about 7am. Birdwatching will normally be undertaken in the cool of the morning, with a siesta during the heat of the day, followed later by further watching. Basic fitness is all that is required. We will undertake short walks every day and the pace will be relaxed. There will be very little uphill walking.

ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD Full-board accommodation is provided with eight nights at the Maria Rosa Hotel in Calangute. This lovely hotel offers excellent facilities in a relaxed and friendly atmosphere. The two nights at Ponda will be at the Hotel Atish. At Dandeli we will stay at the good quality Bison River Lodge. All rooms have private facilities en suite and air conditioning. The food served will include a choice of Indian, Chinese and English dishes. Most lunches will be back at the hotels, with packed lunches when this is not practical.

PRICE INCLUDES ….. All birdwatching excursions with expert leader, full-board accommodation, soft drinks at meal times, local transport by mini-bus, boat trips, reserve entrance fees, return flight to Panjim, and flight and airport taxes.

WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED Cost of travel insurance, payable at the time of booking. Cost of obtaining an Indian visa (approx. £30). Items of a personal nature, alcoholic drinks, laundry, tips, etc.

INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Return flight to Goa from both London Gatwick and Manchester using the charter services of a major airline. Outbound flight departs late afternoon, return flight arrives back early afternoon.

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