ARCTIC NORWAY

colourful eiders and other arctic specialities in a spectacular winter landscape

Gyrfalcon & Snowy Owl. Paul Willoughby

Witness the scene. Huge flocks of colourful King Eiders, Steller's Eiders and Common Eiders on the blue waters of a Norwegian fjord. The breeding season fast approaches. Many are calling excitedly; displaying; pairing up. All exhibit their most pristine plumage. They stir. There's a commotion at one end of the fjord. You look up to see the world's largest falcon, a Gyrfalcon, circling above; some of Europe's most stunning coastal scenery in the background.

You are witnessing early spring in Arctic Norway. Few British birdwatchers, and no other bird tour companies we know of, have ventured here at this time of year.

This is the Arctic. Yes it is cold and the number of bird species is relatively low. But cold weather has never stopped the British from birding (it's a good job really!). And the species which are there ooze quality - the Arctic eiders, White-billed Diver, White-tailed Eagle, Snowy Owl, Brunnich's Guillemot, Siberian Tit, Siberian Jay, Arctic Redpoll and Pine Grosbeak, and the chance of several other northern owls.

With 12 hours of daylight per day, an infrastructure well used to coping with the harshest of conditions, and travelling kept to a minimum (compare this to a winter visit to Alaska), it is possible to witness some truly outstanding polar birding, without the hardships of other destinations.

This must also be the best time of year and best place in Europe to see the Aurora Borealis. To compare it with a laser light show does not do it justice.

On day one we will fly to Kirkenes, in Lapland, our base for the first night and where we will look for the birds of the northern forests. On day two we will drive north to Vadso, on the Varanger Peninsula, for a stay of four nights. On day six we will drive back to Kirkenes for our flight back home.

ITINERARY

KIRKENES

Our first night will be spent at Kirkenes, about 200 miles north of the Arctic Circle. Winters here are cold, but it's a dry cold which, if you are well wrapped up, is far more comfortable than the damp winters at home. Searching for those hardy forest birds: Siberian Tit, Siberian Jay, Arctic Redpoll, Three-toed Woodpecker and others which make it through the long dark winter, we can only marvel at their ability to survive.

If it is a good owl year we may find the diurnal Hawk Owl or perhaps even a Great Grey. In the villages many species are attracted to gardens. Willow Tits and Siberian Tits appear at feeders, whilst both Waxwings and Pine Grosbeaks are possible.

Both Common and Arctic Redpolls, tiny avian snowballs fluffed up against the cold are, like many species, quite fearless of people. One thing all these small birds fear, however, is the Pygmy Owl. These ferocious predators move into the villages too!

VARANGER PENINSULA

After a full morning birdwatching near Kirkenes we will head north, to Vadso, on the eastern shore of the Varanger Peninsula. Ideally placed for exploration of the area, Vadso has its own avian treasures in the form of hundreds of King and Steller's Eiders and Long-tailed Ducks that can be watched at point blank range in the harbour.

Our four nights here will give us ample time to explore the area. We will travel along the south side of the peninsula, to the towns of Store Ekkeroya and Yttre Kiberg. Each site is the winter home of hundreds of colourful Arctic eiders, and each also has an assortment of other species to keep us busy.

Seabird cliffs near Store Ekkeroya are one place to look for the majestic Gyrfalcon. The largest falcon in the world, the Gyr is awesomely powerful and causes blind panic amongst anything smaller than a reindeer!

On the eastern tip of the Varanger Peninsula, Vardo harbour is a photographer's dream. The sea duck are rather fearless and approachable, while seals bob up and down in the icy waters. The occasional White-billed Diver can be found; the American name 'Yellow-billed Loon' for once seems more appropriate for these striking birds. Black Guillemots take shelter in the harbour, their bright red legs clearly visible through the crystal clear waters.

With luck we may see all six European alcids, the most sought after, the Brunnich's Guillemot, being in summer plumage already. With relatively few species there will be no great urgency in our visit, allowing plenty of time for photography, or for simply watching the antics of the many fascinating birds. Seals are common and a look out to sea may reveal a family pod of Killer Whales. One year we saw two Fin Whales, the second largest animal on earth.

Weather permitting, we will take a short boat trip to see the auks at very close range. Huge numbers of gulls will include numerous Glaucous and perhaps an Iceland Gull. Even the enigmatic Ivory Gull could make an appearance.

One day we will head west, then north, towards Hoyholmen. On the journey we will keep a sharp eye open for roadside birds. Perhaps a smart male Snowy Owl (just how do you spot a Snowy Owl in a snowstorm?), a Willow Grouse (ditto!) or a Ptarmigan will be seen. A pair of Gyrfalcons on a roadside cliff have provided the highlight for our groups in the past.

Our quarry is not restricted to birds. We may come across an Arctic Fox or an Elk, as well as numerous semi-domesticated Reindeer. With displaying male Long-tailed Ducks calling all around we will scan the skies for the magnificent White-tailed Eagle.

It is no exaggeration to claim that here is some of the most spectacular scenery in Europe, at its best with the winter snows and the spring light. What better surroundings would you want for a sighting of one of Europe's most impressive raptors? On day six we will drive back to Kirkenes and catch our flight to London (via Oslo).

PACE Breakfast will normally be taken at 8.00am. There is no need for early starts at these latitudes, and bird activity remains constant throughout the day. Due to the cold temperatures (averaging between -5 and 0 ºC, but colder in the wind) participants should be in reasonable health. In other respects, the pace of the trip is relaxed and there is no uphill walking.

ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD Full-board accommodation is provided with one night in the Rica Hotel Kirkenes, and four nights in the Rica Hotel Vadso. All rooms have en suite bathrooms. Unlike most of our trips, warm meals will be served for lunch as well as in the evenings.

PRICE INCLUDES ….. All birdwatching excursions with expert leader, full-board accommodation, soft drinks at meal times, local transport by mini-bus, boat trip, flight to Kirkenes, and airport taxes.

WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED Cost of travel insurance, payable at the time of booking. Items of a personal nature, alcoholic drinks, laundry, etc.

INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Return flight from London Heathrow to Kirkenes, via Oslo, using the scheduled services of Scandinavian Airways. Outbound flight departs early afternoon, return flight arrives back late afternoon. Connecting shuttle flights are available on this tour for £60 return (due at time of booking), from Manchester and other regional airports.

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