SW TURKEY

Eastern birds and Ephesus

Quail can be heard calling but it takes luck for a migrant to show! Phil Palmer

Turkey is rated as one of the most exciting birdwatching destinations in the Western Palearctic, yet it is still relatively unexplored. The main reason for this is the sheer size of the country and as a consequence, unlike in other hot spots such as Spain, we are not likely to bump into any other birdwatchers.

Being such a huge country the prospective visitor has a choice. You can travel many hundreds of miles from west to east, north to south and back, in search of every single exciting species. Alternatively you can base yourself in one relatively small, but diverse area, get to know it well and enjoy what is to be found. We have chosen the second option and will concentrate on the south-west, where typical Mediterranean birds are joined by a number of eastern specialities.

Made famous by its rich culture, ancient ruins, good food, friendly people, reliable climate and golden beaches, SW Turkey can offer you all of these and more. White-throated Robin, Kruper's Nuthatch, Dalmatian Pelican, Red-fronted Serin, Collared Pratincole, Masked Shrike, Cretzschmar's Bunting, Eleonora's Falcon, Spur-winged Plover, Crimson-winged Finch, Smyrna Kingfisher, Rufous Bush Chat and Ruppell's Warbler are among the many exciting birds present in this area at the time of our visit.

From the comfort of two ideally located hotels there can be no better way to enjoy these Turkish delights! On day one we will fly to Izmir, and drive down to Ephesus, our base for the first three nights. From here we will visit Lake Karine and Bafa Golu. On day four we will then drive to Koycegiz, for a stay of five nights, visiting a variety of wetland and mountain sites.

ITINERARY

LAKE KARINE AND BAFA GOLU

Our first full day will be spent at Lake Karine and the Miletus marshes. With the ancient ruins of Miletus in the background, the marshes are particularly attractive. Spoonbills and Glossy Ibis can be watched at close range; Garganey and Wood Sandpipers feed side by side in the water meadows; Bee-eaters hawk insects overhead; and Spur-winged Plovers display on the drier areas.

Past visits have yielded some of our best sightings, including both Great Snipe and western Turkey's third ever White-tailed Plover!

Lake Karine is a huge brackish lagoon separated from the sea by a sand spit. This reserve is internationally important for its breeding Dalmatian Pelicans. Also present are Great White Egrets, Caspian Terns, Long-legged Buzzards and waders which may include Marsh Sandpiper, Kentish Plover, Ruff, Little Stint and Black-tailed Godwit. In the afternoon we will explore a track leading along the south edge of the lake, where a breeding colony of Ruddy Shelducks could have small ducklings. Collared Pratincoles hawk over the marsh and Isabelline Wheatears occur in the drier areas. A colony of almost tame Lesser Kestrels is a sheer delight. A migrant Hobby (right Phil Plamer) can appear at any time and we must be careful to check for Eleanora's Falcon. (Phil Palmer).

The next day we will visit the western shore of Bafa Golu, where a similar range of birds can be found. This area is better, however, for White-tailed Eagle, which sometimes breeds in the area. If the water levels are favourable, thousands of migrant waders can be seen on the shore.

EPHESUS

The world famous archaeological site of Ephesus, one of the seven ancient wonders of the world, is just a short drive from our first hotel. We will set aside three or four hours for our visit. Even the most die hard birder should not fail to be impressed, but just in case, there are Rock Nuthatches, Blue Rock Thrush and Long-legged Buzzards in and around the ruins!

LAKE KOYCEGIZ & THE DALYAN DELTA

On day four we will drive south to Lake Koycegiz, our base for the remaining five nights. The Hotel Panorama Plaza is situated on the shores of the lake and steep-sided, pine clad mountains complete the idyllic picture. A variety of interesting birds such as Rufous Bush Chat, Penduline Tit and Masked Shrike can be found just a short walk from the hotel.

Lake Koycegiz and the Dalyan Delta are joined by a narrow channel which passes the town of Dalyan. The area is most easily explored by boat and we shall spend a half day travelling along the reed-fringed lake and down channels leading to the delta and then to the sea.

We will explore the ruins of Kaunos, with its impressive amphitheatre and Rock Nuthatches, and marvel at the ancient Lycean rock tombs. Perhaps the most sought-after breeding bird here is the Smyrna Kingfisher. It is, however, rather scarce and we will need to keep a sharp eye out in order to find it.

Much more numerous is the delightful Penduline Tit which can be found in the reedbeds and waterside trees throughout the area. We may even be fortunate in seeing one skilfully constructing its elaborate pendulous nest. Migrant terns include both Whiskered and White-winged Black. Large flocks of migrating Glossy Ibis are a regular sight, whilst other birds include Pygmy Cormorant, Little Egret, Purple Heron, Squacco Heron, White Stork and Spur-winged Plover.

The lake is one of only two places in Turkey where Nile Soft-shelled Turtles are found; we know of a spot where we can watch them without causing disturbance. In the drier areas we can hope to see numerous Eastern Olivaceous Warblers as well as Cetti's and Fan-tailed Warblers and Black-headed Wagtail. Two male Citrine Wagtails provided a highlight on one visit.

Rufous Bush Chat is best found by listening for its Song Thrush-like song. Masked Shrike and Ruppell's Warbler are two more local specialities and can be found alongside the more familiar Bee-eaters, Crested Larks, Red-rumped Swallows, Black-eared Wheatears, Woodchat Shrikes, Spanish Sparrows and Rollers. Birds of prey in the area include migrant Red-footed Falcons and regular Eleonora's Falcons.

One evening, after dinner, we will try to see one of the numerous Scops Owls in the vicinity.

ARLA

The mountains behind Koycegiz rise quickly to over 7000 feet. We can ascend to over half this height on the road to Arla, amid incredible scenery. The main prize here is the Kruper's Nuthatch, an endemic to the region and one that is fairly common. Nevertheless, they would be fairly difficult to find, due to their unobtrusive lifestyle, were it not for their distinctive call.

Short-toed Eagles can be watched hovering over distant ridges. In the woods there are both Middle Spotted and Syrian Woodpeckers as well as the localised Sombre Tit. Jays are particularly numerous, the local race exhibiting rather dark plumage and black crown. Further down the valley in the more open areas we will watch for the highly vocal Black-headed Bunting singing from low bushes as well as the stunning Black-eared Wheatear.

MUGLA

This dramatic looking town, framed by mountains and at the foot of some particularly stunning crags, is an excellent place to look for the exciting birds of Asia Minor. Cretzschmar's Buntings can easily be found, the males betraying their presence with their four-syllable song. The main prize in this area is the White-throated Robin, a bird which combines beauty, scarcity and a restricted range with a choice of stunning natural surroundings.

On past visits we have never failed to find them at two easily accessible sites. Also common in the area are both Ruppell's and Orphean Warblers and Blue Rock Thrush.

GULUBELI PASS

A day trip into the Ak Mountains, east of Dalaman, will provide the perfect climax to this exciting trip. We discovered this site in 1999, where a road cuts through some of the most dramatic scenery in Western Turkey. With snow-capped peaks in all directions, Red-fronted Serin is fairly common and Crimson-winged Finch is possible. Other species include White-throated Robins, Chough, Wryneck, Ortolan, Woodlark, Rock Sparrow, Rock Thrush, Rock Bunting, Snow Finch and Orphean Warbler.

PACE Most mornings there will be the opportunity for short pre-breakfast walks, in the vicinity of the hotels, with breakfast taken at about 8.00am. On two mornings breakfast will be at 7am so we can make an early start for more distant sites. Basic fitness is all that is required. Full days will be spent in the field and short/medium length walks will be undertaken regularly. There will be very little uphill walking, even in the mountains, which will be done at a relaxed pace.

ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD Full-board accommodation is provided, with three nights at the excellent Richmond Ephesus Resort followed by five nights at the lovely Hotel Panorama Plaza at Koycegiz. All rooms have an en suite bathroom. Packed lunches will be taken every day.

PRICE INCLUDES ….. All birdwatching excursions with expert leader, full-board accommodation, soft drinks at meal times, local transport by mini-bus, boat trip in the Dalyan Delta, entrance to archaeological sites, return flight to Izmir/returning from Dalaman, and flight and airport taxes.

WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED Cost of travel insurance, payable at the time of booking. Cost of Turkish visa (approx. £10) obtainable on arrival. Items of a personal nature, alcoholic drinks, laundry, etc.

INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Return flight from London Heathrow to Izmir, returning from Dalaman (both via Istanbul) using the scheduled services of Turkish Airlines. Outbound flight departs late morning, return flight arrives back late afternoon. Connecting shuttle flights are available on this tour for £60 return (due at time of booking), from Manchester and other regional airports.

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