SPITSBERGEN AND SVALBARD

Polar Bears, Walrus and breeding birds of the high Arctic

For more photos taken on our last tour, see our Photo Album.

The Arctic is one of the few places left in the world where one gets a true feeling of being in a pristine wilderness. Only 600 miles from the North Pole, the islands in the Svalbard Archipelago were until recently a destination for expedition scientists rather than travelling wildlife watchers. We will be at the edge of the Pack Ice, where many of the attempts to reach the North Pole began!

We offer the combination of birds, mammals and plants in a breathtaking arctic landscape. Little Auks, Brunnich's Guillemots and Ivory Gulls have seen the bleak polar winter release its icy grip on the massive cliffs and stunning fjords to allow the birds to breed under the glow of the midnight sun.

We will search for the arch-predator here, the Polar Bear, which is to be found hunting Walrus and seals on the pack ice.

Massive whales feed offshore and the colourful flower-rich tundra provides a brief summer home for Barnacle Geese, Grey Phalaropes, Purple Sandpipers and Red-throated Divers.

The best way to reach the secret corners of this wildlife-rich archipelago is by boat. Our ice-strengthened research vessel allows us to cruise the islands in search of the best wildlife, with the flexibility to make diversions based on the latest information.

We have the facility to make landings in remote areas where there are no roads, airstrips or human habitation. This wildlife expedition is a once in a lifetime experience. It is possible to find shorter, less expensive cruises to either north or south Spitsbergen, but our Arctic Experience allows us to arrange what we believe to be the best option; a ten night cruise during which we attempt to circumnavigate the island of Spitsbergen.

ITINERARY On day one we fly to Longyearbyen (via Oslo and Tromso), capital of Svalbard and transfer to our guesthouse for the night. This allows us to ease into the trip with plenty of time to look for wildlife the next day rather than rushing from airport to ship. Those that want to see the town and do some shopping or visit the museum are free to do so before joining our ship. Dainty-looking Snow Buntings sing from rooftops while Glaucous Gulls, Arctic Terns and Dunlin can be found nearby. More luck is required to see Ptarmigan, Arctic Fox and Svalbard Reindeer here. Our vessel will take us out of Isfjorden as we head north past awesome cliffs hosting thousands of Brünnich's Guillemot, Puffins and Little Auks. Opportunistic Glaucous Gulls will be in attendance while Pomarine, Great and Arctic Skuas follow the terns and Kittiwakes heading out to sea. This Walrus was very confiding in 2004. Phil Palmer

We begin a route that circumnavigates Spitsbergen, the largest island in the group. Ice conditions dictate our ultimate route as our experienced crew keep a regular check on the weather and also act upon the most recent information regarding sightings of Walrus and Polar Bear. The Expedition Leader and Captain's knowledge is invaluable as we attempt to see the ultimate arctic predator in its natural environment. Almost a quarter of the world population of the ice bear occurs here - at least 3,000!

The usual daily routine is to use the ship's five large zodiacs to approach the pack ice, glaciers and fjords. We may choose to cruise amongst the ice to approach Ringed, Bearded or Harp Seals more closely. Alternatively, we may land on the shore to explore the tundra. Conditions permitting, excursions lasting three to four hours are made each morning and later in the afternoon. These are accompanied by an expedition guide who will impart his knowledge, but is there primarily to safeguard us from the attentions of Polar Bears.

Walking across the tundra carpeted in arctic bell heather and dwarf willow, we search for herds of the short-legged Svalbard Reindeer that graze the numerous arctic flowers. At this time of year, many of the plants such as Jacob's Ladder (left, Phil Palmer) will be in flower. We hope to find breeding Pink-footed, Barnacle and Brent Geese. Crèches of goslings at the time of our visit attract skuas and Arctic Foxes. Pools of water may hold Red-throated Diver, Long-tailed Duck, Common Eider and Grey Phalarope. If we are lucky, a migrant Pomarine or Long-tailed Skua will complete our set of European skuas.

Dunlin and Purple Sandpiper are breeding, and look splendid in their cryptic summer dress. Small numbers of Ptarmigan, Turnstone and Red-necked Phalarope also breed but are harder to find. Arctic Foxes seek out young waders, but are more often found scavenging around the foot of huge seabird colonies.

Little Auks breed in their thousands in Svalbard by Phil Palmer

These mountains and cliffs form a spectacular backdrop to the wheeling swarms of Little Auks. Up to 15 million nest in these islands! Thousands of Brünnich's Guillemots begin breeding in May and are likely to have young at the time of our visit. Glaucous Gulls are common and we shall be keeping a watchful eye for the rarer gulls.

Sabine's Gulls occur in small numbers and have bred. Ross's Gull has attempted to breed and regularly migrate past Svalbard during late summer, both are difficult to find but for those spending time on the bridge can be rewarded.

The star bird is of course the ghostly Ivory Gull whose whole life is spent at the edge of the pack ice. They are so adapted to the polar conditions, that they rarely bathe for fear of freezing. They survive the dark arctic winter by scavenging on seal and Walrus carcasses, and in summer they attend Polar Bear kills. About 400 pairs breed here and we can expect to see several.

Time at sea provides the opportunity to study the Blue Fulmars that breed here and look for the Minke Whales that are regularly sighted in coastal waters. Beluga, Orca, Sperm and Humpback Whales all occur but sightings are rare. On last year's visit we were fortunate in seeing many Beluga Whales. Most were at the mouth of Isfiorden, while a small pod fed below the massive Monaco Glacier which is five miles wide!

The southern limit of the pack ice provides our best chance to see Walrus. These magnificent creatures often allow a close approach by zodiac and some colonies such as those at Moffen offer the best chance to observe them in good numbers. Cruising the calm mirror-like waters where spectacular glaciers calve into the sea, we are likely to find Black Guillemots, the odd one out amongst the auk family in that they are more solitary than their cousins. They are common here and often feed around the small pieces of sculptured blue ice that drift in the fjords.

The human influence in these islands cannot be ignored and we may see abandoned whaling stations, graves, or the remains of explorers' camps. Of course everything is the "most northerly" in the world: the post office, the railway, etc, etc.

Photographic possibilities are endless. The landscape is stunning and much of the wildlife is approachable. Our leader, Phil, is a veteran of polar photographic trips having also visited Siberia, Greenland, Iceland, Alaska and Antarctica. He will be on hand to answer any photographic questions you have and assist with the locating of birds. This female Grey Phalarope (right, Phil Palmer) was one of a flock of 17 we found on Lagoya in 2004.

Returning to Longyearbyen on day 12, we disembark with time to check on any birds in the bay, or pick up a souvenir before making our way to the airport for the flight home. During our stopover in Tromso, either outbound or on our return and depending on flight times, we should be able to make a short excursion. Mealy Redpolls can be found in the birch scrub, while on last year's visit we saw a splendid White-tailed Eagle. Please note:

The itinerary is flexible and dependent on weather and ice conditions at the time. This will be decided by the expedition leaders and ship's captain. Bird Holidays has no direct influence on this but be assured that all changes are made to improve our Arctic experience.

This big male swam towards our ship in 2004! Phil Palmer

PACE Excursions are made most mornings and afternoons and there is usually a choice for varying interests and pace. The Bird Holidays leader will accompany one group but you will be free to join another excursion group if your preferences lie elsewhere.

ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD Full-board accommodation is provided with one night in the Spitsbergen Hotel in Longyearbyen, Svalbard, followed by ten nights aboard ship. Our ship will be either the Professor Multanovsky or Professor Molchanov, part of a fleet of Finnish-built research vessels owned by Oceanwide, a Dutch company.

Please note there is a supplement for en suite cabins, and a lower fare if you are prepared to share in a three bunk cabin.

PRICE INCLUDES ….. All sea and land-based excursions with Bird Holidays leader and/or expedition leaders, full-board accommodation, on shore transport, reserve entrance fees, soft drinks at meal-times, return flight to Longyearbyen, and flight and airport taxes.

WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED Cost of travel insurance, payable at the time of booking. Items of a personal nature, alcoholic drinks, laundry, etc.

INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Flights are from London Heathrow to Longyearbyen (via Oslo and Tromso), using the scheduled services of Scandinavian Airlines. Outbound flight departs mid-morning; return flight arrives back mid-evening. Connecting shuttle flights are available on this tour for £60 return (due at time of booking), from Manchester and other regional airports. However, due to the flight times it may be necessary to stay overnight at Heathrow. Please call for details.

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