TEXAS

North American birding at its best

Migrating Long-billed Dowitchers are in breeding plumage when we visit. Phil Palmer

Large numbers of North American birdwatchers have, for many years, made an annual early spring pilgrimage down to Texas. Indeed, those who have the time and resources often spend the whole winter there. The reason is simple - there are birds everywhere you look. Take, for example, the spectacle of hundreds of Scissor-tailed Flycatchers, which line roadside wires.

Fortunately, being such a huge state, this influx of birdwatchers does not impact on the environment, nor on our enjoyment. There is no difficulty in finding peaceful seclusion where there is no noise, save for the calls of enthusiastic songbirds establishing their spring territories.

The timing of a visit to Texas is critical. Too early and the summer visitors haven't arrived yet. Too late and the Whooping Cranes and numerous other winter visitors have departed. Get it just right, as we consistently have, and you experience the best of both worlds, with the added bonus of abundant passage migrants.

A visit at this time is further enhanced by a pleasant spring climate, ahead of the scorching hot summer. On this tour, we mix Texan breeding birds, numerous migrating raptors returning from South America, wintering species ready to head north, the Mexican specialities of the Rio Grande and migrant passerines on High Island; This is North American birding at its most exciting. The Ovenbird (left, Phil Palmer) is one of the many American wood warblers that raise the pulse when found at High Island. We have been birdwatching in this State either individually or leading tours for two decades now and our knowledge of the sites regularly allow us to see close to (or sometimes over) 300 species at a relaxed pace!

ITINERARY

ARANSAS NATIONAL WILDFOWL REFUGE

Having arrived at Houston on the first afternoon we will drive straight to our first base, Rockport. A small fishing town on the Gulf Coast just south of Aransas, Rockport will be our base for two nights. Our hotel is near a large bay where Great Northern Divers, Black-necked Grebes, Roseate Spoonbills, Brown Pelicans, Reddish Egrets, Buffleheads, Lesser Scaup, Caspian Terns, Royal Terns and Black Skimmers can all be seen.

By visiting the Gulf Coast at both ends of the tour, we double our chances of enjoying the falls of migrating passerines. Being over a week apart, this provides a different selection of early and late warblers, vireos, thrushes and orioles.

A boat trip from Rockport will take us into Aransas Bay. This shallow lagoon bordering the Blackjack Peninsula is the winter home to the world's only remaining wild Whooping Cranes. Down to a population of just fifteen birds in 1941, they are rigorously protected now and in 2004 the entire world population of 189 wild birds wintered here. We can expect to see several family parties just prior to their migration to breeding grounds in Canada's NW Territories.

Herons and egrets nest in good numbers and the Roseate Spoonbill is seen here.

LOWER RIO GRANDE VALLEY

From Rockport we will head down to the Rio Grande Valley and the town of McAllen, our base for the next four nights. On day four we will spend a full day at Santa Anna NWR, one of the top birding sites in the southern USA. On arrival at the visitors' centre we will find Great Kiskadees calling raucously from the tree tops.

An Altamira Oriole will probably be the second colourful bird to greet us. Nearby, a short wait by some red-flowering shrimp plants should produce the smart Buff-bellied Hummingbird. Previous visits here have yielded hundreds of Broad-winged Hawks and smaller numbers of Swainson's Hawks and Mississippi Kites.

Walking along trails to the various lakes we should chance upon more birds including Pied-billed Grebe, Little Blue Heron, Sora Rail, White-faced Ibis, Black-bellied and Fulvous Whistling Ducks, Black-necked Stilt and Common Yellowthroat.

Our second full day in the area will be spent at Bentsen-Rio Grande Valley State Park. Species which can be seen here include Golden-fronted Woodpecker, Green Jay, Northern Cardinal, Bronzed Cowbird, Red-winged Blackbird and Altamira Oriole.

At dusk the Common Pauraque, a long-tailed nightjar, can be watched giving its distinctive territorial call. On past visits Elf Owl, Eastern Screech Owl, Ferruginous Pygmy Owl and Great Horned Owl have all been seen. Last year we even saw a Bobcat and a Striped Skunk!

Our third day here will be spent at various other excellent sites in the area. At Anzalduas State Park rare Mexican specialities turn up with some regularity. We have regularly seen Tropical Parula, Grey Hawk, Rose-throated Becard and Clay-coloured Thrush in the area; all Mexican specialitites..

On day seven we will visit the Falcon Reservoir area, a huge wetland created by the damning of the river. Chihuahuan Ravens, Harris's Hawks, Great-tailed Grackles, Black Vultures, Loggerhead Shrikes and Red-winged Blackbirds abound. The beautiful Scissor-tailed Flycatcher is very common.

In riparian woodland just south of the dam we will get a taste of 'Mexican' birding. Southern species such as Plain Chachalaca, White-tipped Dove, Couch's Kingbird, Green Jay, Long-billed and Curve-billed Thrasher and Pyrrhuloxia are all common, while we also have a good chance of finding Brown Jay, Red-billed Pigeon and Hook-billed Kite.

Kingfishers provide one of the highlights, with Belted, Green and the huge Ringed all likely to be seen.

In the afternoon of day seven we will leave Falcon Dam, and drive to Neal's Lodge, our base for the next three nights.

THE EDWARD'S PLATEAU

Our base in the Edward's Plateau is Neal's Lodge in the village of Concan. Situated in a beautiful spot on the Frio River, birds are abundant about the lodge's 300-acre grounds.

We shall be greeted by some of the most pleasant scenery in Texas - wooded limestone hills, the crystal clear waters of the river and clear blue skies (hopefully!). We shall spend a full day exploring the numerous trails around the grounds, in search of Canyon Wren, Cactus Wren, White-winged and Inca Doves, Greater Roadrunner, Black-chinned Hummingbird, Ladder-backed Woodpecker, Western Scrub Jay, Ash-throated Flycatcher, Vermilion Flycatcher, Black-crested Titmouse, Cedar Waxwing, Nashville and Yellow-throated Warblers, Canyon Towhee, Rufous-crowned and Black-throated Sparrows and Lesser Goldfinch.

Our second full day here will be spent at Lost Maples County Park, just a short drive north. Not only is this a very scenic spot, it is also home to the two most sought-after birds of the area, the Golden-cheeked Warbler and Black-capped Vireo. The former is fairly easy to find once the distinctive song is learnt. The latter is rather elusive, but should not present too much difficulty as we have plenty of time in this area. A glance at any field guide shows that both birds only breed in this small part of the world!

Before we leave we will pay a visit to the Concan Bat Cave on a private ranch, a short drive from Neal's Lodge. At dusk a swirling mass of bats - 13 million Brazilian Free-taileds to be precise - can be watched emerging from the entrance, where they are targetted by hawks and falcons. We can expect some other nocturnal creatures. We now regularly find the Ring-tail Cat a rarely-seen secretive mammal that sits at the mouth of the cave pouncing on bats as leave.

HIGH ISLAND

On day ten we will drive to Winnie, our final destination. Here we will spend our last four nights, searching for migrants on High Island as well as visiting nearby Anahuac, Bolivar Flats and Big Thicket National Preserve. High Island is separated from the mainland by an extensive area of marshland and the Intercoastal Waterway, and is connected by an impressive causeway and bridge.

Here, a visit to Boy Scout Woods can be a fascinating experience. Given the right conditions the woods will be alive with brightly coloured warblers, tanagers, orioles and flycatchers. At Anahuac National Wildlife Refuge, extensive coastal marshes hold good numbers of herons, ducks, rails and waders. No less than seven American Bitterns performed here on one visit.

In addition we can hope for Least Bittern, American Purple Gallinule, Tricoloured Heron, Hudsonian Godwit, White Ibis, Eastern Kingbird, Boat-tailed Grackle and Alligators….

Bolivar Flats will provide perhaps our most spectacular birdwatching of the holiday. A carefully timed visit should reveal a myriad of waders retreating on the tide; thousands of American Avocets, with good numbers of Willet, Marbled Godwit, Knot, Sanderling, Dunlin and Western Sandpiper. Both Dowitcher species present identification challenges, while numerous Pelicans, Stilts and Skimmers provide a wonderful spectacle.

Four ringed plovers can be seen - Semi-palmated, Wilson's, Snowy and the rare Piping Plover. Heading inland towards the Big Thicket National Preserve, pine forests and cypress swamps hold various exciting birds. Pine Warblers, Eastern Bluebirds, Red-shouldered Hawk, Cedar Waxwing, Red-bellied and Pileated Woodpecker, Blue Jay, Carolina Chickadee, Tufted Titmouse, Swainson's and Hooded Warblers and Bachman's Sparrow may all be seen.

Eastern Meadowlark and Yellow-crowned Night Heron by customer Sheila Ryde

PACE

Breakfast will be taken at about 7.00am most mornings, slightly later if the previous day has been tiring. Basic fitness is all that is required. Full days will be spent in the field and short/medium length walks will be undertaken regularly. There will be a little gentle uphill walking in the Edwards Plateau, done at a leisurely pace.

ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD

Full-board accommodation is provided, with two nights at the Best Western, Rockport, four nights at the Drury Inn, McAllen, three nights at Neal's Lodge, Concan, and four nights at the Winnie Inn near High Island, away from the island which contains many mosquitoes!

All rooms are very spacious and have en suite bathrooms. Packed lunches will be taken every day.

PRICE INCLUDES ….. All birdwatching excursions with expert leader, all reserve entrance fees, full-board accommodation, soft drinks at meal times, local transport by mini-bus, flight to Houston, and flight and airport taxes.

WHAT IS NOT INCLUDED Cost of travel insurance, payable at the time of booking. Items of a personal nature, alcoholic drinks, laundry, etc.

INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Return flight from London Gatwick to Houston, using the scheduled services of British Airways. Outbound flight departs mid-morning, return flight arrives back mid-morning. Shuttle flights are available on this tour for £60 return (due at time of booking), from Manchester and other regional airports.

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