Bird Holidays Tour... 27th November to 12th December 2004

The famous red dunes at Sossusvlei

After settling in with some local birding at Windhoek, we spend our first days are in the Namib Desert. Views of the dunes are amazing only appreciated when a solitary Black-breasted Snake Eagle adds scale by gliding over an oryx (gemsbok) already walking up the 400m high sand mountain. Among tussocks at the base we find Dune Larks, a localised endemic also thousands of Grey-backed Finch Larks and Stark's Larks. We search for Burchell's Coursers and Double-banded Coursers to compliment them. Before leaving Sossusvlei, it is possible to enjoyed a beer, while watching a Red-necked Falcon hunting at sunset over dunes, a perfect cocktail.

For full details & booking, contact info@birdholidays.co.uk or phil@birdholidays.fsnet.co.uk

Photographs copyright Phil Palmer

Ruppell's Korhaans (left), & Kori Bustard (right)

Namibia is well known for its bustard species. This pair of Ruppell's Korhaan's came to drink at a small pool and are very well known to us. They live in an area where our leaders camp under the stars and have become very tame. Each year they have joined us for afternoon tea and have brought their offspring in successful years.

The larger Ludwig's Bustards had recently arrived in the area. These nomadic birds follow rain showers in search of food, and in 2001, we came across a loose flock of 25 strutting around the flatlands that border the famous red dunes. The largest of all is the famous Kori Bustard, which struts across the Savannah in search of reptile prey. Enormous Lappet-faced Vultures sit in dead trees waiting for a thermal on which to rise, and Lanner Falcon's watch for sandgrouse.

We then head to the Skeleton Coast to look through the thousands of flamingos, pelicans, cormorants and fur seals that benefit from the food-rich Benguela Current, that originates in the Antarctic. We shall expect to find Black Oystercatcher, Damara Tern, White-chinned Petrel and the endemic Gray's Lark. On our last trip we found Terek Sandpiper and Franklin's Gull, both major rarities.

Burchell's Zebra

Jack, a tame Guineafowl is our alarm clock at Erongo Wilderness Lodge where we search of Rockrunner, Hartlaub's Francolin and Short-toed Rock Thrush. Cape Buntings and some very confiding White-tailed Shrikes greet us after our bird walks. Rock Hyrax and Black Mongoose are easily found, while Kudu come to drink at the waterhole, with Leopard seen less regularly. Verreaux's Eagles hunt for hyrax and Greater Striped Swallows glide overhead while we look for Dusky Sunbird, Three-streaked Tchagra, White-browed Robin and Black-chested Prinia.

As we head towards Etosha, we encounter more big game, with Burchell's Zebra becoming very common. Secretary Bird and Kori Bustard strut across the savannah.

Courting Lions, Etosha

Rising before dawn each day in the world famous Etosha national Park, we take coffee and a light snack before venturing out to see what the night has brought. It is important to be out at dawn, to catch the tail end of the night-time animal activities, as the cats' in particular retire to hidden dens soon after sunrise. After seeing more springbok, giraffe, zebra, wildebeest and oryx than could be counted last year, we found a pair of courting Lion, that put on a magnificent show for over an hour.

African Scops Owl

After a morning in the field, we retire to our accommodation at one of Etosha's forts for brunch overlooking a waterhole. By late afternoon, the heat subsides a little and we again take to the road after tea and cakes. This rather civilised behaviour ensures that we are out during peak activity periods, while others are tied to restaurant hours. It also means that we are in the shade of the camp, with the birds at midday when things calm down. This gives us the opportunity to search for Scops and Pearl Spotted Owls, as well as enjoying Hoopoe and Hornbills.

In an evening we retire to the spotlit waterholes, where flocks of thirsty Namaqua and Double-banded Sandgrouse come to drink. Blacksmith's and Crowned Plovers keep watch for the clumsy zebra, rhino and kudu that dare to stray close to their eggs. It is here where the massive Milky Eagle Owl come to hunt.

Elephants in the storm, Etosha

The rains can be a mixed blessing as the birds begin to display in readiness for nesting, migrants move in and the underground dens of mammals are flooded, giving us more chance to see them. On the other hand, the larger game animals such as Rhino are not so regular at waterholes, making them harder to find.

White-tailed Shrike

This charming little bird is full of character and a favourite among visitors to Erongo where several birds are part of an ongoing scientific study.

Pygmy Falcon

Despite its tiny size, the Pygmy Falcon is a ruthless killer. As well as preying predominantly upon weavers and finches, it also lays its eggs in part of the large colonial nests that they build. This bird is a female, having a red/brown mantle.

Leopard

Leaving Etosha, we search for the special birds of the Waterberg Plateau, including Monteiro's Hornbill, Ruppell's Parrot, Crimson Breasted Shrike and Damara Rockrunner. In the past we have been treated to close-up views of some of the cats that live in the hills there.

Cape Fur Seal

Thousands of Fur Seals give birth at strategic spots on the Skeleton Coast in November. We will visit one colony near Walvis Bay. We often see several pelagic species, such as Jackass Penguin, White-chinned and Wilson's Petrels, as well as the endemic Heaviside's Dolphins.

Skeleton Coast Salt Pans

As the salt crystalizes, it turns pink with the high contentration of algae trapped within

Gemsbok and Zebra

Both animals are very common in Etosha, some giving birth at the time of our visit.